Sunday, September 13, 2009

Marathon Sunday

Fried and tired, tired and fried.

Onshores and crap weather were pretty much making any go-outs this week a less than desirable option but today....well....today was great.

The Bollocks(along with Mrs. Bollocks) and I headed out to a not-so-secret and yet never-all-that-crowded beach break. I've mentioned it plenty of times before but I will leave it up to the imagination of you, the readers, to determine which one it is. In any case, it was easily waist high and at one point, glassy and clean as anything.

We had decided to make a day of it and so surfed for a couple of hours, ate lunch and then went back out again. I caught some lovely rides, made more trips to the nose(sort of) and even met the man who pioneered the break(He told me so, resplendent in his springsuit and gloves and with a Surftech under his arm).

I. Am. Wiped.

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