Thursday, November 27, 2008

Thanks

Happy Thanksgiving.

I went with a new tradition this year and woke up early enough to surf. The whole coastline has been lit up, so I made the quick drive to Nahant to check it and I was glad I did.

The sets that were rolling in varied in size, anywhere from waist to head-high and there were plenty of peaks to be had with maybe six other guys out. It was cold and I promised myself that I would get at least a couple of rides before packing it in.

One wave can make a session. I had only caught one half-way decent ride and was starting to ponder heading in since my upper body was starting to feel chilly when a nice set came in. I went for a shoulder-high zipper and almost stalled at first but some extra weight on my front foot made the drop possible. I half assed the bottom turn being that I was somewhat astounded that I didn't screw up the drop and that I was actually still up and flying, so I didn't quite get to work the wave the way I would've liked but you never would've known it from the way I was hooting. A perfect start to the day.

Thanks.

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