Beach Break Brutality

When my Mom arrived yesterday to watch the kids, I told her that I had a doctor's appointment at 1:45 and would be leaving early from work. After the appointment, I also informed her, I would be going surfing. "You're an idiot. You don't want to wait until it's warmer?" Thanks Mom but no, I need this.

The air was about 50, the water about 37/38. I brought the Hot Generation to baptize it. As it turned out, it would not be the best day to try and get a new board wired.

It didn't look that bad from the beach, however, at The Local, you have to get pretty close up to get a true assessment of what's going on out there. The parking situation at The Local has sucked for some time. I've previously mentioned that construction on the causeway up there, which is dragging on way too long, has resulted in the huge parking lot(state beach) being closed off. This means that if you luck out and get a spot in the small lot at the rotary, well, you've lucked out. As I'm changing, a dude with a board on top of this truck racks pulls in and barks out, "Leavin'?" "Nope." He pulls into a recently vacated spot and the huge rails give the guy away. Sweeper. "You surfing or paddling?" "Surfing, man." "Attaboy!" It's hard to be standoffish to such an affable janitor.

I walk down to "Dirt Pile" and watch for a bit while stretching. White water is heavy. It's not overhead. Call it chest to head. Doable. If you want to take a longer stroll to get to "Bath House" or "Third Bench", you can. However, it's easier to hit the peak at "Dirt Pile" where the water is nice and mungy. Again, I can't wait for the lot to open back up, so I can just go right out at either of the two aforementioned peaks.

I thought there was a channel but no. Perhaps it was wishful thinking. Perhaps I was just impatient. Still and all, paddling headway was being made. Just as I time it right and get reasonably far out, a set wave Maytags me before I can get outside. Shit. I struggle a little longer but it's not happening. I ride a reform in and walk even further up the beach. That's a channel.

This time I get out. It was 3:30 when I started all this. It's now a bit past 4. It looks to be head high on the sets. Once I've had my rest, I start trying for them. Now I'm too far out. Alright, I move in. Legs are starting to get cold. Finally, I drop in on a set wave. Lots of white water. I'm more or less on the flats, trying to turn the corner and as fast as the HG is, I never quite make it. I settle for some reforms on the inside as I know I have to get out and head for home.

At least I got wet.