"You're a good Dad but a bad surfer."
That was a comment from one of my fellow surfing dads. After at least 5 weeks of epic flatness, a bump appeared to soothe those of us dying for even the barest semblance of a swell. Friday was the day. New England definitely has these mysto swells that pop up and then are just...gone, so if one does pop up, you best be ready. I missed this one. Kid minding issues in the morning made a dawn patrol out of the question and a promise made to the boys made a sunset go out nil as well.
Instead, I pulled out the pig and the Hot Generation the next morning as the buoys were showing that there were leftovers. I was so damn giddy that I blasted past a cop doing 52 in a 35 zone. Thankfully, I got away with a warning. It wasn't all time. Knee high, slow and mushy was the special of the day but the pig was up for the challenge and I actually got some fun rides. For shits and giggles, I ran back to the car for the HG but the board likes a faster wave than the stuff I was fooling around on and even though I was catching waves, they were all a little lackluster.
The prevailing theme from the guys in the water and the dude in the parking lot and Tony was, "It was really fun yesterday. Best waves of the summer." Could I slam my head against a tree? I could but then I'd just have a sizable welt on my head and I know that the fall is just getting started. Right? That's what I'm telling myself anyways.
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